FUSION FOOD OR CONFUSION CUISINE?
by Tim Ellison

Fusion cuisine. Ask a cook today to define his cuisine and you will often hear him describe it as “fusion”. Now, back in the 70s when Wolfgang Puck was putting smoked salmon, crème fraiche, and beluga caviar or roasted duck with pears and ginger on pizzas, the term still seemed fresh, and it had been around for about a decade in California by then. These days some chefs think it is just an excuse to ignore basic tenets of good cooking. 

East and west - how about north and south (think tex/mex)? The culinary clashing of cultures is a result of the effects of the global village. As people travel, cuisines meld. New ingredients and techniques are introduced, shared, and things change. In the old days, it took forever for Marco Polo to march noodles to Italy on the backs of camels. Now, with the jet age, personal mobility, and the advent of reliable refrigeration, our globetrotting generation has year-round access to virtually any foodstuff desired. The age of change is slightly accelerated these days. Fusion has become a verb. It is the blending of the influences around us. 

At the Listel O’Doul’s Hotel in Vancouver, Executive Chef Tim Meuhlbauer points out that the greatest place for the sharing of culture is at the dining room table. The commonality of eating and drinking is what binds humanity, so naturally there will be an exchange of culinary influence. Chef Muehlbauer explains that respecting tradition, and understanding how the dishes have evolved over the centuries and became embedded in their various societies, connects you with that culture. He and his staff are actively sourcing the best products available locally, whenever possible, and incorporating them into their menu. Indian buffets, Asian influences, and good old Prairie canning and preserves (we have a Canadian culture too, eh) go side by side, and the guests (and service staff) are asking for more.

Chef Muehlbauer’s quest for authenticity has him considering foods on a chemical and molecular level. Ferran Adria of Barcelona’s El Buli and other chefs are breaking ingredients down to their most organic level to truly comprehend why they taste and interact with each other the way that they do. A solid foundation seasoned with the sheer pleasure of experimenting with and ultimately perfecting flavour combinations is necessary to really fuse cuisines, insists Chef Muehlbauer. He says the excitement of successfully combining the best of all the culinary influences around him is what keeps him actually cooking in the kitchen everyday and loving it.

Naturally, there are some items that must be imported either because they are simply unavailable, or can’t be found locally. For properties that put a lot of effort and emphasis into food and beverage, like the Metropolitan Hotel Vancouver, there really is no choice. General Manager Jeremie Roncoroni simply insists his chef sources the finest ingredients for their guests. In order to truly set the trends and not follow them, there must be respect for tradition, ingredients, and technique. Regionality is fine, as long as it is the absolute best possible expression of what that region has to offer, and maintains its true integrity in its execution every single time. Creating the ultimate dining experience is paramount over any trend or fad. This includes as much consideration to details like napkin colour as to menu item selection and everything in between.

I can remember working in a Vancouver kitchen and using green beans from Kenya (the chef was European and he must have used his old supplier phone list!). These days with public opinion spawning initiatives like the 100 Mile Movement (all ingredients come from within 100 miles to reduce fossil fuel emissions generated by transportation), no chef would dare such environmental transgressions, or at least not admit it. These days you try to source locally if you can.

Back to fusion, Executive Chef Ray Henry of the Metropolitan Hotel Vancouver, feels that when working in a multicultural environment like Canada, fusion isn’t really a kind of cuisine per se, but more a natural progression of your culinary expression. As cooks are trained classically (read as French), he thinks you can’t help but be influenced by the different ingredients and variety of techniques from the myriad of cuisines and cultures that surround you. It is really regional cuisine. It’s just that there is a lot more global variety here than a lot of other places in the world. 

Chef Henry suggests that the work of a kitchen is a group effort. When your crew is from around the world they bring a wealth of influences and different abilities right to your doorstep. It is up to the chef to find the best expression of that mix without losing sight of the fact that it is all about really great food and constantly upping the bar to keep guests coming back. Chef Henry has married solid techniques and the very best of ingredients from around the world to create cutting edge dishes that provide surprises and twists that intrigue and delight. He has introduced innovations like chorizo and chick pea soup garnished with feta pakoras, and a citrus salmon belly satay appetizer. By thoroughly testing and fine-tuning recipes, he ensures all the items that make it to the menu are ones that the service staff can be confident the guests will adore. 

At Gastropod Restaurant, Kitsilano’s hot new spot, chef/owner Angus An would never describe his cuisine as “fusion”. He feels too many chefs fuse dishes simply for the sake of trend. He also feels that fusion isn’t about a cultural exchange. He points out that all cultures have an individual tradition of sharing the best techniques, ingredients, and ideas amongst themselves for the betterment of all. It is human nature to share. Food, and the pleasure derived from it, is something we all appreciate, so we are inclined to work together to make it better and more pleasurable for everyone’s enjoyment.

It seems that the industry leaders agree that forcing different cultures’ techniques, ingredients, and presentations together for the sheer purpose of doing so is really not the point. It is understanding the true nature of a culture and its cuisine - not only the “hows”, but the “whys” of a dish. It is creating an exciting and innovative atmosphere that keeps cooks challenging themselves to perfect their palate and the art of creating balance on menus and individual dishes. It is about the service staff developing exacting product knowledge and perfect tableside skills. It is about everyone bringing the very best of everything this global village has to offer to thrill our guests and keep growing, and developing our very own “regional” Canadian cuisine with vibrancy and variety.

Certified Chef de Cuisine and Sommelier Tim Ellison is the Vancouver-based Sommelier and On Trade Sales Representative for the western Canadian wine importer, Rocky Mountain Wines. To contact him visit www.rockywines.com